Rei Kawakubo
When you think about legendary fashion designers and the effect they have on fashion as we know it today, you can’t exclude the big three coming out of Japan - Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. But what makes their careers have so much longevity and influence? We will dive into the career of one of my favorite designers, Rei Kawakubo and her influence on the fashion industry we see today.
Rei Kawakubo who is the creator of Comme des Garçons (CdG) “like boys” started her career in fashion by working for Asahi Kasei, a textile manufacturer in the advertisement department until a friend of hers encouraged her to become a stylist (The New Yorker). From there, she decided to start making her own clothes for them, launching her own company 1969 and showing her first runway collection in Paris in 1981.
Rei is known for her unconventional, against the grain style challenging Western fashion at the time. The brand has pushed boundaries of fashion through is avant-garde designs and innovative concepts using contrasting textures, fabrics and cotton quilting insertions, she created a new and more voluminous look (NGV). She never wants to conform to the standards of fashion or even take influences from past designers and artist. Appreciating the punk spirit, she embodies the idea of being in opposition of the norm. She believes that everything comes from within herself and to create new means being closed in to herself. Her drive to want to make something completely new and never seen before is what makes her legacy so impactful and iconic. Most of the time arts, music and fashion are referenced from the past or something to do with their surroundings. With her punk-like mindset she wants to be the origin of inspiration for those creatives coming after her, the source. Three key collections that I believe helped shape her career and legacy was her 1982 collection Hole, Dress Meets Body in 1997 and Broken Bride in 2006.
Her autumn-winter 1982 collection, Holes (Destroy) was one of her many revolutionary collections at the start of her career. Garments that were featured were primarily black, distressed and had unfinished hems all over the pieces that were shown (NGV). This technique she has introduced into fashion has influenced designers to come after her. Big names such as Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Raf Simons and Ann Demuelemeester all have used the deconstructive and/or all black aesthetic approach from the foundation that Rei has laid down.
Dress Meets Body, Body Meets Dress (S/S 1997) is one of the most controversial runway shows to disrupt the status quo of the fashion industry. This show was the opposite of what fashion looked like during the 90’s which was slime fitting clothes complimenting the models bodies in monotone colors that was very elegant or, chic. Dress Meets Body was more about embracing the clothing itself. You would see massive lump like shapes or “pads placed on the abdomen, the hips, the back as well as the shoulder region” (MoMA). It was very bold and left people confused which is exactly what Rei wanted to do, leave the people guessing. This collection is also referred to as “lumps and bumps”.
Understanding her style and how she is as a designer only scrapes the surface of Comme des Garçons or as many are starting to call it, the multi-verse. This brand is very complex with it’s many layers and subsidiaries within the brand. It can be overwhelming processing and fully understand everything the brand has to offer. This fashion conglomerate has produced some of the biggest named Japanese designers that have worked directly with Kawakubo as well.
Kawakubo’s vision has not only produced iconic garments but also nurtured some of the industry’s most influential designers we know today. Designers such as Key Ninomiya (2012) has been supported by Rei Kawakubo, working as a pattern cutter for about 4 years within the brand before eventually launching his own sub-label, Noir Key Ninomiya. Also, Chitose Abe the creator of Sacai and Junya Watanabe who, I believe is the most notable one, have all found success with their designs and creative thinking.
Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons
“Monozukuri” or craftsmanship is the best way to define Junya Watanabe and his work of garments through the years. He is Rei Kawakubo’s first unofficial protege. Working his way through the brand starting in 1984, he was eventually named head designer for the Tricot line which was full of knitwear pieces. In 1987 he become the creative designer for Comme des Garçons Homme (1978) which was the menswear line, opposite of the mainline for the brand being the most commercial men’s line (Women's Wear Daily). With his background as a pattern cutter and the teachings Rei handed down to him, his labeled was created starting with womenswear in 1992 then so after came Junya Watanabe Man Comme des Garçons in 2001. These labels were composed of patchwork material, elements of deconstructionism and functionality. I-D magazine goes on further to explain his “avant-garde designs are made out of unusual and unexpected, techno materials like aluminum pipes and glow-in-the-dark fabric”. A great example of this would be his fall/winter collection “Techno Couture”. He later launched eYe Junya Watanabe Man Comme des Garçon in 2005. This diffusion line was made for collaborations with big named brands such as Alpha Industries, Carhartt, Levi’s, Lacoste, New Balance, North Face, Palace and Stussy (Vogue).
Comme des Garçons Homme Deux (1987)
This line is made for preppy school men and women, business men and people who still have an appreciation for suits, even if it’s just going to grab brunch with a few friends. Using Japanese crafting you will see very well structured trousers and blazers throughout this line. These looks are made with traditional Japanese techniques like deconstruction paired with premium garments (i-D Magazine).
Comme des Garçons SHIRT
The line that challenge gender barriers since 1988. Defined by experimenting with shirts with cuts, patterns and adding to these pieces. It has also expanded to include trousers, jackets and accessories (i-D Magazine).
Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons
An extnetion line of Rei Kawakubo’s own personal style. CdG, CdG was launched in 1993, offering “classic monochrome pieces reimagined using asymmetric cuts and intricate detailing” via Farfetch. You will find pieces like cut out pleated skirts, wide leg high rise trousers, pinstriped pleated dresses and more.
Comme des Garçons PLAY has climbed the latter within the brand to be one of her most popular labels to come out. Funny enough this label is opposite of what you usually see from her work. PLAY’s motif which is a distorted heart with two eyes was created by a Polish artist by the name of Filip Pagowski. Launched in 2002, this line is as described in the name, PLAY. It was fun, light and colorful filled with streetwear silhouettes like t-shirts, long sleeves, polos, cardigans & hoodies. They have had a number of collaborations such as their famous Converse, along with partnering with Nike and Supreme on shoes as well. Most people will associate the brand with PLAY even though this came well after the brand was actually created.
Aside from the many brands within the Comme universe, she has also created a magazine called Six Magazine in 1988 which, lived a very short life discontinuing in 1991. This bi-annual collection consisted of her own work along side other artists, photographers and writers.
One of her best creations, Dover Street Market was a realm, almost a museum like store for consumers to experience the world of CdG and brands alike being showcased throughout the store. As you venture in, you come across multiple levels and installations catered to the brand that is being presented. In cities such as London, Ginza, New York, Tokyo and Los Angeles you will find very unique and diverse array of clothes, accessories and even cafes. Understanding the true scope of the brand and Kawakubo’s vision will take some time and effort to fully comprehend what she has built since starting by hand.
The Comme verse stretches wide and far as I couldn’t capture the entire brilliance of the brand and Rei Kawakubo. From small boutiques to largely known departments stores, you will be able to find and collect Rei’s work through her years of creating. She stands front line as a frontier of deconstructive and avant-garde fashion in the industry today. She is the designer of designers; your favorite designer favorite’s designer. With her meaningful craftiness, chase for newness and always shaking the industry, it’s no doubt why she is the legend she has become today.
